The shorter your leader the more your spinner is affected by the action of the flasher. Too short and the flasher will spook the fish, too long and you won’t get much action out of your spinner.
No mention of bait?
That’s right, by the time this fishery is really producing the water temperature has warmed into the 60’s and chinook just don’t bite bait well. They will bite spoons. I like fishing Yakima Bait FST’s in red and white but copper is a good choice, 50/50 brass and nickel is another winner. These don’t get used much but they’re very effective. They were wildly popular 70 years ago but have been largely forgotten by everyone except the salmon.
I’ll fish both. That is, 3.5 spinners with 360 flashers on my forward rods (the ones closest to the bow) and spoons on the rear rods with triangle flashers (like a Yakima Bait Fish Flash).
Brad’s Super Baits and Yakima Bait Spin Fish work well too. Both of these lures have large scent chambers you can load with oil-packed tuna fish and run behind a 360 flasher.
Finding the right troll speed is the secret. If your 360 flashers are working then your triangle flashers are working too. The 360 flasher imparts a rhythmic, steady pulse where the rod’s pulsing in about ½ second to ¾ of a second intervals.
If there is no pulsing action then you’re going too slow or the lure you’re using is too big. I’ve learned the hard way on this one. I used a size 5 blade behind a 360 flasher and couldn’t, for the life of me, figure out why I couldn’t get it to work. I messed with leader length and boat speed but it just wouldn’t work. The friend I was fishing with had done the same thing and learned the same lesson — the lure was too big for the flasher.